Shoe.



Patented Nov. l4, I899. J. A. KELLY.

SHOE.

tApplicMion filed June 16, 1899.)

(No Model.)

WITNESSES:

UNITED STATES PATENT OF ICE.

JOHN A. KELLY, OF SYRACUSE, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO SEWARD E. BOWMAN, OF SAME PLACE.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 687,002, dated November 14, 189 9.

Application filed June 16, 1899. Serial No. 720,746. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, JOHN A. KELLY, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga,in the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Shoes, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to improvements in the construction and manufacture of shoes.

My object is to produce a turned shoe having all of the advantages of an ordinary turned shoe, and yet at the same time providing it with a sole sufficiently thick to give it all the advantages of an ordinary welt-shoe.

The usual way of making a turned shoe is to remove the upper outer edge of the sole and stitch close to the remaining inner portion or edge, so that when the shoe is completed the sole at the edges at most is only one-half as thick as the remaining portion of the sole.

In manufacturing turned shoes by the old way the seam or stitch remains unprotected in most shoes, in view of thefact that the upper outer edge of the sole is removed. The pressure of the foot within the upper produces a strain away from the base of the stitch, and it soon wears in two or breaks, while in my improved shoe the upper edge of the sole is allowed to remain, and there being a deep channel just inside causes the pressure of the foot to force the edge of the upper against the base of the stitch, and

thereby add greatly to its endurance.

It is constructed as follows, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side view of a turned shoe constructed in accordance with my invention, showing the outer edge of the sole as thick as the remaining portion. Fig. 2 is a cross-section on line a; 00, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the sole before it has been stitched to the upper. Fig. 4 is a cross-section on line yy, Fig. 3. Fig. 5 shows one side of the sole, showing the course the needle will take and the outer edge of the sole forced temporarily out of alinement. Fig. 6 is an enlarged View of the upper and sole shown in Fig. 2.

A is a turned shoe,-comprising an upper a and sole a.

b is the sole, which has a groove or channel 0 formed around its edge and sufficiently far from the edge to allow the outer portion of the groove or channel to form a shoulder g, which forms a support for the bent or doubled edge of the upper a. This groove or channel 0 is made sufficiently wide and deep to receive the lower bent edge of the upper and at the same time to allow the inner edge of the upper to rest directly against the shoulder or between substance 0', which is formed by turning up the leather which has been cut from the sole in forming the groove or channel. Inside of this shoulder a is the channelb, which is formed in the usual manner. v

In order to allow the upper to be stitched to the sole, as shown in Figs. 2 and 6, without any interference upon the part of the outer edge of the sole, this outer edge (1 is turned downward out of alinement with the main portion of the sole, as shown in Fig. 5, and thus the stitching can be done without any interference.

As is well known, in turned shoes the shoe is larger after it is turned than it was before, and hence in order to compensate for this enlargement resulting from turning the shoe an insole e is placed in between the shoulders, as shown in Figs. 2 and 6, which insole reaches, preferably, to the top of the shoulders. When the pressure of the foot is brought to bear upon this insole, a lateral pressure is exerted upon the sole at the line of stitching, and this lateral pressure is taken up by the shoulder g, and thus the line of stitching is relieved from all strain, for the pressure against the upper is transferred to the shoulder As the insole e compensates for the additional size inside of the shoe after it is turned and as the shoulder 9 receives the pressure upon the upper, a thicker sole is produced and the foot is raised farther from the ground than has heretofore been possible in turned shoes, and as most of the strain upon the line of stitching is transferred to the shoulder g a heavier, stronger, and better shoe is produced, and yet one which is more elastic than those which have heretofore been made on account of the elasticity in the insole. An-

other advantage gained by the construction shown is that the sole is as thick at its outer edge as it is at its center. It will also be observed that by using the filler, which fills up the entire space between the shoulders and thereby covering the inner channel, I prevent the moisture of the foot from reaching the sole and'the stitching, which would otherwise cause them to rot. It will also be observed that the stitching being protected on the outside by the shoulder g, resting up against the upper,and on the inside by the lip c,the stitching is relieved of all friction.

Having thus described my invention, I clai1n 1. A sole having a groove or channel 0 formed around inside of its edge, and a second groove or channel formed inside of the outer one, and having a shoulder 0 formed between the two grooves or channels, combined with an insole which is placed between the shoulders, upon opposite sides of the sole and the upper which has its lower bent or doubled edge to catch inside of the groove or channel 0 so as to relieve the stitching from the lateral pressure exerted by the foot; the insole rising preferably to a level with the top of the shoulder g, the stitches being passed through the upturned part of the doubled edge of the upper and the between substance, the outer edge of the doubled portion resting against the shoulder g, substantially as specified.

2. A sole having a groove or channel a formed around its outer edge and of suificient width and depth to receive the edge of the upper a, a shoulder g formed around its outer edge, and which serves as a support for the edge of the upper, and a channel 1) formed inside of the channel a, combined with the upper a which has its doubled edge inserted into the groove 0, and an insole e which is applied to the center of the sole and fills the center of the sole to the level of the between substance 0, substantially as shown and described.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 12th day of June, 1899.

JOHN A. KELLY.

Vitnesses:

MILDRED M. NOTT, HOWARD P. DENISON. 

